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Work order — Ruger Redhawk

Taking the firearm apart for a job such as refinishing, and putting it back together to specification. Generated from the Pew-Takedown entry last updated 2026-10-29. Confidence: high.

Shop difficulty: Tier 3 of 3

At 70 pieces the Redhawk reaches the handgun Tier 3 line, and its single mainspring works through a pivoting mainspring lever and a hooked hammer link that has to be worked off the lever, held by a disassembly pin, then re-hooked with the trigger guard group aligned. More interlocking than the GP100, though Ruger still sanctions the takedown. 68 parts (Redhawk base list; .45 Auto/.45 Colt and sleeve/shroud barrel lists excluded (68 line items)). Pew-Takedown's rating, not the manufacturer's.

Bench time: strip ~35 min, rebuild ~55 min (estimate). Actual: strip ______ rebuild ______

Special tools:

• Disassembly pin (supplied, or a fitting pin/paper clip) — Capturing the mainspring on its strut; it must stay in until reassembly
• Small screwdriver/punch through the frame hole — Depressing the trigger guard latch plunger
• Bench vise with soft jaws and a gallon freezer bag — Holding the trigger while the pawl spring/plunger is refitted; catching parts
• 1/8" or smaller pin punch — Trigger guard group pins, sight pins

Watch for:

• The hammer link hook has to be worked off the mainspring lever, sometimes with a jeweler’s screwdriver, before the hammer comes out. (disassembly; Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.)
• The mainspring lever comes out with mainspring and strut held by the disassembly pin; pulling the pin early lets the spring fly with great force. (both; Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.)
• The pawl and transfer bar must be aligned while the trigger guard latch is drawn back with the mainspring lever, or the guard will not lock in. (reassembly; Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.)
• Older guns have the hammer link fitted hook-down and need a different sequence (or a link reversal by driving the hammer cross pin). (both; Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.)
• Anything past the modular takedown is for factory service personnel only. (both; Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.)

Tools

• Properly fitting screwdriver — The grip screw, and depressing the trigger guard lock plunger through the frame hole.
• Pin or dedicated disassembly pin — Capturing the mainspring strut before the mainspring assembly is removed.

1. Clear and make safe

1. Point the muzzle in a safe direction and keep your finger off the trigger.
2. Press the cylinder latch and swing the cylinder out.
3. Press the ejector rod firmly to eject all cartridges or cases from the chambers.
   Tip: Point the muzzle up and strike the rod briskly so the cases clear fully.
4. Look through every chamber, one at a time, and confirm each is empty.
   Warning: Every chamber, counted. A revolver with one loaded chamber looks identical to an empty one from most angles.
5. Confirm the bore is clear of obstruction.
6. Remove all live ammunition from the work area.

2. Disassemble

Manufacturer's video: Redhawk Disassembly (RugerFirearms)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSPi3ZHUCeY

Field Strip

1. Complete the Clear and Make Safe procedure and close the cylinder.
2. Using a properly fitting screwdriver, remove the grip screw and remove the grip from the frame.
   Tip: On the GP100 the pistol grip inserts and the grip panel locator come off first, then the grip pulls downward off the frame.
3. Cock the hammer, then insert an appropriately sized pin about half its length into the hole at the rear of the mainspring strut.
   Warning: The hammer must be COCKED for this step. Pinning the strut is what keeps the mainspring captive.
   Tip: Some models ship with a dedicated disassembly pin for exactly this.
4. With your thumb on the hammer spur, squeeze the trigger and let the hammer go fully forward, then lift the mainspring assembly out of the frame.
   Warning: Do not remove the pin until the mainspring assembly is reinstalled. Removing it lets the mainspring fly off its strut with great force and can cause injury.
5. Hold the trigger in its rearward position and lightly strike the hammer pivot pin to release it from the frame, then lift the hammer out of the top of the frame while keeping the trigger held rearward.
6. Insert a screwdriver of appropriate size through the hole in the frame to depress the trigger guard lock plunger, located inside the frame at the REAR of the trigger guard, and simultaneously pull the trigger guard assembly down and out.
   Warning: The plunger is at the rear of the trigger guard and is reached through a hole in the frame — not a latch at the front.
   Tip: It may be necessary to slightly depress the trigger while removing the trigger guard assembly.
7. Cradle the frame, press the cylinder latch button, swing out the cylinder assembly and remove it forward from the frame.
   Tip: The cylinder only comes out once the trigger guard assembly is removed.
8. Stop here. Further disassembly is not needed for normal cleaning and the manual restricts it to factory service personnel.

3. Refinish

The components the procedures above separate. Coating, masking and cure are outside this database; follow your coating system's instructions. A part the manufacturer marks "factory fit" should not be swapped or reworked.

The manufacturer's full parts list (68 parts) is on the reference page.

4. Reassemble

Manufacturer's video: Redhawk Reassembly (RugerFirearms)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Tlz-IUYi7A

Reassembly

1. Before starting, be certain all components and the inside of the frame are thoroughly clean — particularly the tongue on the front of the trigger guard and its mating recess in the frame.
2. Replace the cylinder and crane assembly in the frame and close the cylinder.
3. Hook the front of the trigger guard into the recess in the frame, align the pawl in its recess, and confirm the transfer bar is correctly positioned at the rear of the firing pin. Swing the trigger guard upward into the frame and let the latch re-engage.
   Warning: If you feel solid resistance, or the trigger guard will not lock into position, stop and re-check the pawl and the transfer bar. Do not force it.
   Tip: The pawl and transfer bar alignment is the step that catches people out on this design.
4. With the revolver pointed in a safe direction, pull the trigger a few times. At this stage the trigger should rotate and lock the cylinder.
5. Hold the trigger in its rearward position, insert the hammer into the frame and install the hammer pivot, then release the trigger and let the hammer go fully forward.
6. With the hammer forward, insert the mainspring assembly into the frame, positioning the two ends of the notch in the mainspring seat onto the matching projections of the grip frame.
   Tip: The large notch in the mainspring seat goes forward, to clear the grip screw.
7. Hold the mainspring assembly in position and cock the hammer, moving the assembly slightly if needed so the upper end of the mainspring strut rests in its recess in the hammer. Once the hammer is cocked, the pin can be removed and will fall free.
   Warning: Only now is it safe to remove the strut pin.
8. Squeeze the trigger and ease the hammer down, then push the grip upward onto the frame and install and tighten the grip screw.
9. Open and close the cylinder, then dry fire in both single action and double action to confirm all parts are working properly.

5. Torque

No manufacturer torque values are recorded for this firearm.

Notes: The manufacturer's documents give no torque value. They say: "Then tighten the eight top screws a bit at a time to grip the scope body." (Instruction Manual for Ruger Redhawk Double-Action Revolvers, PDF p. 28)

Fit or check on rebuild

• Pawl and transfer bar positioned so the trigger guard swings home without resistance; trigger rotates and locks the cyli — Ruger’s own reassembly check.
• Timing / carry-up and cylinder lockup in single and double action; dry fire both ways — Ruger asks for single- and double-action dry fire after reassembly; worn pawl or cylinder stop gives the "does not lock up" fault (entry commonIssues).
• Hammer and trigger side play (shims) where fitted — SP101 manual reassembly puts hammer shims either side of the hammer; Shooting Times measures side play with a feeler gauge.
• Crane, front latch and cylinder latch lock the cylinder closed; cylinder spins free with no drag — Ruger’s function check (cylinder must spin freely; hammer must not cock with the cylinder open).

6. Function check

• Again, be certain the revolver is unloaded before any check.
• Visually inspect the revolver to ensure no components are damaged, missing, loose, bent, cracked, chipped, or peened.
• Open and close the cylinder and confirm it latches securely.
• Cock the hammer slowly and confirm the cylinder indexes and locks up at each chamber before the hammer reaches full cock.
• With the hammer at full cock, confirm the cylinder is locked with only minimal rotational play.
• Dry fire in single action and in double action through every chamber to confirm all parts are working properly.
• Confirm the trigger guard assembly is fully latched into the frame.
• If you observe excessive wear, stop using the revolver and contact customer service.

If any check fails, the firearm is not safe to fire. Stop and see a licensed gunsmith.

Sources

1. Instruction Manual for Ruger Redhawk Double-Action Revolvers — Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc. primary
   https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/redhawk.pdf
2. Ruger Instruction Manuals — Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc. primary
   https://ruger.com/dataProcess/serialHistory/manuals.php
3. Ruger Redhawk Double-Action Revolver — Specifications (model 5041) — Sturm, Ruger & Co. primary
   https://ruger.com/products/redhawk/specSheets/5041.html
4. Instruction Manual for Ruger GP100 Double-Action Revolvers — Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc. primary
   https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/gp100.pdf
5. Instruction Manual for Ruger SP101 Double-Action Revolvers — Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc. primary
   https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/sp101.pdf

Educational guide only. Some information comes from non-authoritative sources. Always consult your manufacturer's manual and a licensed gunsmith. Verify your firearm is unloaded before every procedure. Full disclaimer: https://github.com/Fundamental-build-LLC/Pew-Takedown

Legal notice: this material is third-party information compiled from sources of varying reliability and is provided for general informational and educational purposes only. It is not gunsmithing, technical, safety or legal advice, it is not verified or endorsed by any manufacturer, and it must not be taken as fact. Any work on a firearm beyond the routine field stripping described in its own owner's manual should be performed only by a licensed and insured gunsmith. You use this material entirely at your own risk. Fundamental Build LLC and the project's contributors make no warranty of any kind and accept no liability for death, injury, damage or loss arising from its use. Full terms: LEGAL.md.