Pew-Takedown
Guide only. Educational guide only. Some information comes from non-authoritative sources. Always consult your manufacturer's manual and a licensed gunsmith. Verify your firearm is unloaded before every procedure. Read the full disclaimer.

← All firearms · Printable work order

Nagant M1895 Revolver

field strip ~3 min · reassembly ~5 min · detail strip ~40 min

Before you begin Verify this firearm is unloaded. Remove the magazine or empty the cylinder or tube, lock the action open, and check the chamber both by sight and by touch. Keep the muzzle in a safe direction and remove all live ammunition from your work area.

Specifications

Manufacturer
Tula Arms Plant
Origin
Russia
Category
Revolver
Action
Double-action revolver
Calibers
7.62x38mmR Nagant
Capacity
7 rounds
Production
1895–1945 (surplus)
Also known as
Nagant Revolver, Model 1895 Gas-Seal Revolver

Model-specific safety

Trigger press: not confirmed either way This entry records that no trigger press is needed to disassemble, but that has not been checked against the manufacturer's manual — no manual is cited here yet. Several entries in this database were found asserting exactly this and turning out to be wrong. Treat the takedown as if a trigger press may be required: confirm the chamber is empty before you begin, and check your own manual.

Under spring tension

Easily lost parts

Cylinder axis pin / ejector rod assembly · Sideplate screw · Cylinder

Tools

No tools required for the field strip.

Shop difficulty

Shop tier 2 Tier 2 — moderate among revolvers, for the full job: strip to the parts that get coated and put it back together working. Sideplate lockwork with a two-leaf mainspring relaxed by the trigger guard, but the gas-seal system adds a cylinder-advance cam that must work after reassembly; published accounts call the take-down easy once understood. No parts list found, so moderate at low confidence.

No sourced part count yet.

Bench time: about 40 min to strip, 65 min to rebuild (estimate). Estimated: cylinder axis and cylinder, ejector, sideplate, trigger guard (relaxes the mainspring), mainspring, hammer, trigger, pawl, gas-seal cylinder-advance parts, gate and recoil plate. Rebuild longer for aligning the gas-seal cam and pawl under the sideplate and checking that the cylinder moves forward on cocking.

What comes off for coating

Special tools

Known pain points

Fit or check on rebuild

This is Pew-Takedown's rating, not the manufacturer's. How tiers are rated. Forum reports are owners' experience, not specifications.

Procedures

Clear and Make Safe

Clear & Make Safe

Seven chambers, one at a time through the loading gate.

  1. Point the muzzle in a safe direction and keep your finger off the trigger.
  2. Open the loading gate on the right side of the frame.
  3. Swing the ejector rod out from under the barrel and align it with a chamber.
    Removed at this step: (rod positioned)
  4. Push the ejector rod rearward through each chamber in turn to eject the cartridge or case, rotating the cylinder between each.
    Removed at this step: One cartridge or case per cycle
  5. Repeat for all seven chambers.
  6. Rotate the cylinder through a full revolution and look into every chamber to confirm each is empty.
    WarningSeven chambers, verified individually.
  7. Confirm the bore is clear, return the ejector rod, close the loading gate, and remove all live ammunition from the work area.

Field Strip

Field Strip
  1. Complete the Clear and Make Safe procedure.
  2. Open the loading gate.
  3. Swing the ejector rod assembly out and withdraw the cylinder axis pin forward out of the frame.
    Removed at this step: Cylinder axis pin and ejector rod assembly
  4. Roll the cylinder out through the loading gate opening on the right side of the frame.
    Removed at this step: Cylinder
  5. Clean the chambers, bore, cylinder face, forcing cone, and the barrel throat where the case mouth enters.
  6. Stop here. The sideplate and lockwork are gunsmith territory and the springs are old.
    WarningThe gas-seal cam mechanism that moves the cylinder forward is part of the lockwork. Leave it alone.

Reassembly

Reassembly
  1. Roll the cylinder back into the frame through the loading gate opening.
  2. Align the cylinder and slide the cylinder axis pin back in from the front until fully seated.
    TipRotate the cylinder slightly rather than forcing the pin.
  3. Return the ejector rod to its stowed position under the barrel and close the loading gate.
  4. Perform the function check.

Torque specifications

No sourced torque values from the manufacturer are recorded for this firearm. Where a fastener has a specified torque — action screws, scope bases, muzzle devices, barrel nuts — get it from the manufacturer or a gunsmith rather than estimating it.

What the manufacturer does say: The official military manuals give no torque value. They say: "надеть дверцу ушками на стойку рамки; завинтить винт дверцы и винт ее пружины;" [translation by this project: "fit the side plate's lugs onto the frame post; screw in the side-plate screw and the screw of its spring;"] (Наставление по стрелковому делу (НСД-38). Револьвер обр. 1895 г. и пистолет обр. 1930 г. (1941 printing), p. 44 (PDF p. 48), ст. 47 (order of assembly)) "завинтить винт спусковой скобы;" [translation by this project: "screw in the trigger-guard screw;"] (Наставление по стрелковому делу (НСД-38). Револьвер обр. 1895 г. и пистолет обр. 1930 г. (1941 printing), p. 44 (PDF p. 48))

Function check

After every reassemblyPerform these checks on a verified-unloaded firearm. If any check fails, the firearm is not safe to fire — stop and see a licensed gunsmith.

Maintenance

Lubrication points

Cleaning notes

Clean the barrel throat where the case mouth enters — fouling there is what stops the gas seal working. Surplus ammunition of this era is frequently corrosively primed. After shooting it, flush the bore, bolt face, and gas system with hot soapy water or a water-based solvent the same day, dry completely, then oil. Keep the firing pin channel clean and dry — a pin held forward by congealed cosmoline causes slam fires.

Suggested inspection interval: roughly every 500 rounds. This is a general guideline, not a manufacturer specification.

Wear parts to inspect

Cylinder axis pin · Gas-seal cam · Cylinder stop · Mainspring · Firing pin

Common issues

SymptomLikely causeWhat to do
Cylinder does not move forward when cockingFouled or worn gas-seal cam mechanismClean thoroughly. If it persists, the mechanism needs a gunsmith — without it the revolver is just an inefficient revolver. see a gunsmith
Very heavy double-action triggerOriginal design characteristic, made heavier by the gas-seal camNot a fault. Single action is much lighter.
Cannot find correct ammunition7.62x38mmR is a specialist cartridgeUse the correct cartridge. Substitutes defeat the gas seal and may be unsafe. see a gunsmith

Also covers

The procedures above are reported to apply to: Tula and Izhevsk production Nagant revolvers · Polish and Soviet wartime variants. Verify against the manual for your specific model.

Similar manual of arms

Sourcing

Confidence
medium — Drawn from reliable secondary sources and consistent across references, but not confirmed against a primary source.
Verification
Community reviewed only
Last updated
2026-10-29

References

Every source this page draws on, with its web address so you can read it yourself. Numbers in brackets elsewhere on the page point here.

Notes: The gas-seal mechanism is what makes this revolver unusual and is the thing most owners do not expect. Rated medium pending step-by-step confirmation of cylinder removal against a factory manual; the clearing procedure and the ammunition warning are well established.

Found something wrong? Corrections are the most valuable contribution to this project. Open an issue with the model, the step, and a source.