Pew-Takedown
Guide only. Educational guide only. Some information comes from non-authoritative sources. Always consult your manufacturer's manual and a licensed gunsmith. Verify your firearm is unloaded before every procedure. Read the full disclaimer.

← M1 Carbine reference page · This work order as JSON ·

Work order — M1 Carbine

Taking the firearm apart for a job such as refinishing, and putting it back together to specification. Generated from the Pew-Takedown entry last updated 2026-10-29. Confidence: high.

Work order #
Customer
Model on the bench
Serial number
Finish / colour
Received
Technician
Before you startEducational guide only. Some information comes from non-authoritative sources. Always consult your manufacturer's manual and a licensed gunsmith. Verify your firearm is unloaded before every procedure.
  • This work order is written for the M1 Carbine. It is reported to cover M1A1 paratrooper carbine; Commercial M1 Carbine reproductions (with differences) — if the firearm on the bench is one of those, check the torque notes: values do not always carry over.

Shop difficulty: Tier 3 of 3

About 45 basic parts, but the trigger housing alone holds the hammer spring and plunger, sear spring, trigger spring and two spring-loaded plungers. The bolt has a special Ordnance disassembly tool. The entry records four separate reassembly traps (stock, band, guard pin, op spring). 43 parts (Basic nomenclature, barrel/receiver, stock, bolt and trigger housing groups (magazine excluded); adapted from TM 9-1276). Pew-Takedown's rating, not the manufacturer's.

Bench time: strip ~50 min, rebuild ~75 min (estimate). Actual: strip ______ rebuild ______

Special tools:

Watch for:

Tools

1. Clear and make safe

  1. Point the muzzle in a safe direction and keep your finger off the trigger.
  2. Place the selector on safe if the design allows it with the action in its current state.
  3. Press the magazine release and remove the magazine.
  4. Pull the charging handle fully to the rear and lock the action open if the rifle has a hold-open.
  5. Inspect the chamber and magazine well with a light, then physically confirm the chamber is empty.
    Warning: Look and feel. Both, every time.
  6. Remove all live ammunition from the work area.

2. Disassemble

Field Strip

  1. Complete the Clear and Make Safe procedure, and remove the magazine.
    Warning: FM 23-7's caution: do not let the magazine drop to the ground.
  2. Remove the sling and the oiler from the recess in the butt of the stock.
  3. Rest the carbine on a level surface with the head of the upper band screw up and to the left. Using the rim of a cartridge, loosen the upper band screw about 1/8 inch.
    Warning: Loosen only. The screw does not come out.
  4. Turn the barrel over, depress the upper band retaining spring with the base of the cartridge, and slide the upper band over the retaining spring and off the stock.
  5. Slide the hand guard forward until its rear end disengages from the groove in the front of the receiver, and remove it from the barrel.
  6. Grasp the small of the stock with the right hand and the barrel with the left, palm up. Push the safety to the LEFT.
    Warning: The safety must go left or the receiver will not release from the stock abutment.
  7. Raise the muzzle end of the barrel out of the stock until the receiver is released from the stock abutment, then remove the stock.
  8. Lay the barrel and attached assemblies on a level surface, muzzle to the left, operating slide handle UP.
  9. Grasp the operating spring guide rod, pull it to the rear to disengage it from its seat in the operating slide, raise it slightly, and withdraw the operating spring to the LEFT from its well in the receiver. Separate the spring from the guide rod.
  10. Cock the hammer by pulling the operating slide to the rear and pushing it forward.
  11. Turn the barrel so the operating slide handle is DOWN. Start the guard assembling pin with the small end of the operating spring guide rod and pull the pin out from the far side.
  12. Remove the trigger group assembly by sliding it to the LEFT, disengaging its undercut grooves from the corresponding grooves in the receiver.
    Warning: It slides sideways out of its grooves. It does not drop down and off.
  13. Draw the operating slide rearward to its dismount notch, rotate it outward and lift it off its track.
  14. Slide the bolt rearward, rotate it, and lift it out of the receiver.

Remove the trigger spring from the trigger housing

  1. Insert the tube portion of the trigger spring removing tool in the recess in the rear of the trigger housing that holds the trigger spring, compressing the spring and retaining it within the tube of the tool.
  2. Turn the handle of the tool one-quarter turn counterclockwise.
  3. Withdraw the tool and spring while pushing the handle of the tool slightly to the right.

Disassemble the bolt

  1. Assemble the bolt disassembling tool (41-T-3019-625) to the bolt.
  2. Turn the thumbscrew until the extractor plunger is depressed.
    Warning: Any effort to punch out the extractor will shear off the extractor plunger or the extractor retaining lip; depress the plunger before removing the extractor.
  3. Remove the extractor.
  4. Remove the tool.
  5. Remove the extractor plunger and spring, the ejector and ejector spring, and the firing pin from the bolt.
    Tip: Figure 30 shows the parts.

Remove the front sight

  1. Break the front sight pin loose with a tapered punch.
    Warning: Do not remove the front sight unless necessary; the sight body is crimped over both ends of the pin and the key is staked in its keyway.
  2. Drive the pin out with a 3/32-inch drift.
  3. Position the front sight removing tool (41-T-3318-500) over the front sight, hooking it on the rear of the sight.
  4. Enter the pilot of the tool screw into the end of the barrel and remove the front sight by turning the handle of the tool.

Remove the adjustable rear sight

  1. Make a scribe mark on the receiver directly opposite the long line on the index plate, for alignment in assembly.
  2. Place the assembling tool on the receiver with the right-hand jack screw retracted to its extreme position and out of the way.
  3. Place the guide of the assembling tool against the side of the sight and put the connector in place in the dovetail guide.
    Warning: On stamped type sights, use the spacer to prevent distortion of the sight base wings.
  4. Tighten the left-hand jack screw.
  5. When pressure becomes excessive, tap the connector with a brass hammer and take up the slack, repeating until the sight is removed.

Remove the early L-type rear sight

  1. Clamp the rear end of the receiver in a jaw-protected vise.
  2. Place the rear sight aligning gauge over the L-type sight and make a scribe mark on the rear of the receiver, for aligning the new sight.
  3. Drift the old sight out of the dovetail slot from left to right with a brass drift.
    Tip: The dovetail tapers to the left; the letter S on the left face of the base marks the small end. On carbines of recent manufacture the base is staked in place.

Remove the gas piston and piston nut

  1. Clamp the barrel firmly in a vise with protected jaws.
  2. Unscrew the piston nut from the gas cylinder with the gas piston nut removing tool M5, or the gas piston holder and spanner wrench.
    Warning: The nut is staked in place; do not bur or twist its prongs or the piston will not move freely.
  3. Elevate the muzzle of the barrel and slide the piston out of the gas cylinder.
    Warning: Do not remove the gas cylinder; an unserviceable cylinder means the barrel assembly is replaced at a base shop.
    Tip: If the piston will not slide out, tap the cylinder lightly with a wooden block.

Remove the front band locking spring, recoil plate and butt plate

  1. Insert a small straight punch in the spring spindle hole in the left side of the forward end of the stock and drive the front band locking spring part way out from left to right.
  2. Rotate the spring and pull it from the hole.
  3. Unscrew the recoil plate screw counterclockwise until it is clear of the escutcheon threads, then withdraw it from the stock and recoil plate.
  4. Loosen the recoil plate by tapping lightly on its rear top face with a metal tool.
  5. Pull the plate directly forward out of its seating recess in the stock.
    Warning: Do not pull up or down; the rear seating lug sits in a horizontal recess cut in the stock.
  6. Only to replace the escutcheon, thread the recoil plate screw all the way into it from the under side and pull the escutcheon out of the stock.
    Tip: If it is hard to withdraw, insert a small straight punch from the top of the screw hole and tap the end of the screw lightly, or thread the screw in part way from the top and tap lightly.
  7. Unscrew the butt plate screw counterclockwise and remove it from the stock.
  8. Loosen the butt plate by tapping it lightly and pull it to the rear off the stock.
    Warning: If the butt plate is tight, do not pry it off; tap lightly around the edges until it is loose.

Remove the folding stock extension, grip and recoil plate

  1. Remove the lower hinge screw from the lower end of the stock grip by turning it counterclockwise.
  2. With the stock extension extended, unscrew the hinge screw projecting from the upper face of the recoil plate cap, turning it counterclockwise until it is disengaged from the lower hinge nut.
  3. Pull the hinge screw up and out of the grip, then lift off the recoil plate cap and lower hinge.
  4. With a flat-ended punch, push the hinge screw spacer out of the hole in the lock on the end of the lower bar, up into the coil spring.
  5. Pull the stock extension to the rear from the stock and remove the grip spring, hinge screw spacer and grip spring washer from the countersunk hole in the lower end of the grip.
    Warning: Take care that the spring does not fly out and the washer is not lost.
  6. Unscrew the grip screw counterclockwise from the top of the recoil plate and remove the grip and recoil plate.

Disassemble the magazine

  1. Grasp the magazine in the left hand with the base up and the rounded face toward your body.
  2. With the left thumb, press up on the forward (rounded) end of the magazine base until the base can be slid out of its retaining grooves.
    Warning: Restrain the magazine spring as the base is removed.
    Tip: Movement can be started with the rim of a cartridge or a screwdriver point in the indent in the top of the base; ribbed bases with an overhanging lip are removed by inserting a screwdriver under the lip and pulling up and out.
  3. Withdraw the base and the spring from the tube.

3. Refinish

The components the procedures above separate. Coating, masking and cure are outside this database; follow your coating system's instructions. A part the manufacturer marks "factory fit" should not be swapped or reworked.

Component separatedOutCoatedBack in
Sling
Oiler
Upper band
Hand guard
Stock assembly
Operating slide spring
Guide rod
Guard assembling pin
Trigger group assembly
Operating slide
Bolt assembly
Trigger spring
Extractor
Extractor plunger
Extractor plunger spring
Ejector
Ejector spring
Firing pin
Front sight pin
Front sight
Rear sight assembly
L-type rear sight
Gas piston nut
Gas piston
Front band locking spring
Recoil plate screw
Recoil plate
Escutcheon
Butt plate screw
Butt plate
Lower hinge screw
Hinge screw
Recoil plate cap
Lower hinge
Stock extension
Grip spring
Hinge screw spacer
Grip spring washer
Grip screw
Grip
Magazine base
Magazine spring
Follower

No manufacturer statement of materials or finish is recorded. Identify each part's material before choosing prep and cure.

4. Reassemble

Disassemble the magazine

  1. Reverse the tube and slide the follower to the bottom of the tube.
  2. Grasp the long rear flange of the follower and rotate it down out of the tube.
    Warning: Do not force the follower.
    Tip: If it sticks, press on its rear end with a screwdriver from the top of the tube until the stop flange is clear, pressing up on the opposite end to help it rotate.

Remove the folding stock extension, grip and recoil plate

  1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the folding stock extension, grip and recoil plate".

Remove the front band locking spring, recoil plate and butt plate

  1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the front band locking spring, recoil plate and butt plate".

Remove the gas piston and piston nut

  1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the gas piston and piston nut".

Remove the early L-type rear sight

  1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the early L-type rear sight".

Remove the adjustable rear sight

  1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the adjustable rear sight".

Remove the front sight

  1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the front sight".

Disassemble the bolt

  1. Reverse the steps of "Disassemble the bolt".

Remove the trigger spring from the trigger housing

  1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the trigger spring from the trigger housing".

Install the trigger spring

  1. With the trigger spring compressed in the tube of the tool, insert the tool in the recess in the rear of the trigger housing, pushing the handle slightly to the right.
    Tip: The manual says only to reverse the removal procedure; steps 1 and 2 are that reversal.
  2. Turn the handle of the tool one-quarter turn clockwise.
  3. When the spring is in position in the retaining groove of the trigger, depress the trigger and withdraw the tool from the housing.

Reassemble the bolt

  1. Insert the firing pin, the ejector and ejector spring, and the extractor spring and plunger into the bolt.
  2. Position the plunger so that its flat surface matches the flat surface on the extractor retaining lip.
  3. Assemble the bolt disassembling tool to the bolt and turn the thumbscrew until the extractor plunger is depressed.
  4. Install the extractor.
  5. Remove the tool.

Install the front sight

  1. Make sure the front band is assembled on the barrel.
  2. Place the front sight key in the keyway in the top of the barrel at the muzzle with its pin notch facing up.
  3. Tap the key snugly toward the front end of the keyway.
  4. Stake the rear end of the keyway securely against the key.
  5. Slide the front sight on the barrel with the sloping faces of the wings to the rear.
  6. Using the front sight assembling tool (41-T-3017-625), mate keyway and key and drive the sight onto the barrel until the pinhole in the sight aligns with the pin notch in the key.
  7. Install the front sight pin.
  8. Stake the metal of the sight over both ends of the pin.
  9. Tap the sight forward and restake the keyway behind the key.
    Tip: The key must fit tightly in the keyway.

Install the adjustable rear sight

  1. Press the new rear sight into the right side of the dovetail by hand.
  2. Center the aperture ramp on the sight base.
  3. If installing a stamped type sight, put the spacer attached to the assembling tool in place to reinforce the side wings of the sight.
  4. Place the assembling tool on the receiver with the lip of the tool engaging the operating slide guideway in the receiver.
  5. Move the tool to the rear until its dovetail guide enters the dovetail slot in the receiver.
  6. Tighten the jack screw by hand until the block of the jack screw is against the side of the sight.
  7. Insert the torque wrench in the jack screw.
  8. Move the sight into the dovetail slot with the torque wrench, keeping the reading over 18 inch-pounds and under 54 inch-pounds.
    Warning: Take the reading while the wrench is moving; the starting reading is high. Too much pressure will crack or break the receiver; too little and the sight will work loose under firing. If the reading is outside the limits, put the spacer in place and remove the sight.
  9. Continue until the zero line of the index plate is aligned with the scribe mark on the rear of the receiver.
  10. Remove the tool from the receiver.
  11. Screw the ramp of the sight to the extreme left.
  12. Place the staking fixture: for a machined type sight, firmly against the forward edge of the sight base wings; for a stamped type sight, with its center leg firmly against the windage screw.
    Warning: Never apply pressure to the sight base wings; they carry the windage screw and any distortion will ruin the sight.
  13. Place the staking punch in the hole in the fixture and rap it lightly with a hammer, holding the punch to the rear so the fixture stays in position.
    Warning: Stake only adjacent to the notches or indents on the sight base dovetail; the upper edges of the receiver dovetail are easily sheared.

Reinstall the gas piston and piston nut

  1. Clean the inside of the cylinder and the piston and oil them very lightly.
  2. Replace the piston in the gas cylinder and screw the piston nut into the cylinder.
  3. Stake the gas cylinder very lightly into the nut in one of the three places provided.
    Warning: If the nut is not staked it may work loose during firing.

Install the front band locking spring, recoil plate and butt plate

  1. Insert the spindle of the front band locking spring into the hole in the right forward end of the stock, drive it to the left and seat the spring fully in its recess.
  2. If the escutcheon was removed, insert it small end first in its seat in the lower face of the stock grip and tap it in until level and flush with the stock.
  3. Insert the recoil plate into the rear of the receiver aperture in the stock, bevel face up and tang to the rear, from front to rear and held level so that the seating lug and horizontal recess mate.
  4. Seat the recoil plate evenly and flush with its recess by tapping lightly.
  5. Pass the recoil plate screw through the top of the recoil plate and stock grip, thread it into the escutcheon and draw it down part way.
  6. Assemble the barrel and receiver group to the stock, align it, and draw the recoil plate screw down tight.
    Tip: Tightening last prevents strain on the parts.
  7. Place the butt plate on the butt and tap it lightly until solidly and evenly seated.
  8. Insert the butt plate screw and turn it down snugly.
    Warning: Do not force the screw; the threads in the wood may strip.

Install the grip, recoil plate and folding stock extension

  1. Fit the grip to the rear under face of the stock just behind the trigger guard opening, projection pointing downward so the trigger guard bow will fit into the forward face of the grip.
  2. Seat the recoil plate on top of the rear end of the stock with its undercut lug facing forward, align the screw holes, insert the grip screw and screw it down tightly clockwise.
  3. Place the grip spring washer in the large counterbored hole in the lower end of the grip and seat the grip spring in the hole on the washer.
  4. Hold the stock extension with the locking lug on the lower bar facing down, place the upper face of the lock against the lower end of the grip spring and press the lock upward against the spring until the hinge on the upper bar slips over and lies on top of the recoil plate.
  5. Still holding the lock against the spring, align the holes in spring and lock and insert the hinge screw spacer until it is flush with the lower face of the lock.
  6. Position the recoil plate cap over the recoil plate and upper hinge so it rests flat on both.
  7. Insert the hinge screw through the cap and push it down through the hinge, recoil plate, stock, grip, grip spring washer, grip spring, spacer and lock.
    Warning: Push the screw down until its upper shoulder has entered the hole in the upper hinge and is not bearing on the cap or top of the hinge.
  8. Position the lower hinge assembly over the lock so the locking lug slot in the nut mates with the locking lug on the lock and the sling eyelet faces forward.
  9. Press the nut and lock upward against the grip spring and turn the hinge screw until its threads catch in the nut, then turn it until the lower hinge shell rests firmly on the lower face of the grip.
    Warning: Make sure the spacer is flush with the lower face of the lock before trying to catch the threads.
  10. Insert the lower hinge screw in the lower end of the stock grip and turn it clockwise until tight.
  11. Fold the stock extension to the left against the stock to test the locking.
    Tip: The extension should lock rigidly both fully extended and fully folded, and there should be no movement between stock and grip.

Reassemble the magazine

  1. Insert the short curved flange of the follower into the rear (flat side) of the bottom opening of the magazine tube and rotate the long flange upward into the tube.
    Warning: Do not force it unduly or the magazine will be distorted.
    Tip: On tubes with a lip, press down on the opposite end of the follower and rotate until the long flange snaps under the lip.
  2. Push the follower to the top of the tube and insert the magazine spring with its long dimension to the rear.
  3. Compress the spring with the thumb and, starting from the rounded edge of the tube, insert the base square end first, indent projection facing in, under the retaining lips of the tube.
    Tip: Ribbed bases go on with the ribs facing inward.
  4. Push the base in until its projection catches on the tube.
  5. Push the follower down in the tube and release it to test that it moves smoothly under spring action.
    Tip: The ramp on the follower must face the rear of the tube, the flat side with the two nibs for the magazine catch.

Reassembly

  1. Set the bolt into the receiver raceway and slide it forward.
  2. Engage the operating slide at its dismount notch, rotate it into its track, and slide it forward, engaging the bolt camming lug and the gas piston.
  3. Slide the trigger housing group into place and insert its retaining pin.
  4. Set the barrelled action into the stock and install the barrel band and its screw.
  5. Install the recoil spring and guide into the operating slide.
    Warning: Control the spring throughout.
  6. Cycle the action several times and perform the function check.

5. Torque

FastenerSpecificationSequenceSourceAppliedInit.
Rear sight assembling tool jack screw, pressing the adjustable rear sight base into the receiver dovetail 18–54 in-lb
2–6.1 N·m · 1.5–4.5 ft-lb
Para 49h: read the torque wrench while it is moving (the starting reading is high). Below 18 inch-pounds the dovetail is oversize and the receiver is peened (para 49v); above 54 inch-pounds the sight base bottom is filed, never the receiver (para 49w). [3] para 49h, p. 65 (PDF p. 70)

Notes: The official military manuals give no torque value. They say: "Slide the upper band down over the end of the hand guard and stock until it is engaged by the upper band retaining spring. Tighten the upper band screw." (FM 23-7: U.S. Carbine, Caliber .30, M1, PDF p. 18 (leaf 17), assembly)

Fit or check on rebuild

6. Function check

If any check fails, the firearm is not safe to fire. Stop and see a licensed gunsmith.

If it won't go back together

SymptomCauseFix
The stock will not come off, or will not go back on.The safety is not pushed to the left, so the receiver is still caught on the stock abutment.Push the safety to the left, then raise the muzzle end of the barrel out of the stock — or lower it in, refitting.
The upper band will not slide off.The upper band screw was not loosened, or the upper band retaining spring is not depressed.Loosen the screw about 1/8 inch — do not remove it — then depress the retaining spring with the base of a cartridge and slide the band off over it.
The guard assembling pin will not start, or the trigger group will not come free.The hammer is not cocked, or the trigger group is being pulled downward instead of sideways.Cock the hammer first by cycling the operating slide. Start the pin with the small end of the guide rod, then slide the trigger group to the left out of its undercut grooves.
The operating spring will not go back into the receiver well.It is being pushed straight in rather than entered from the left with the guide rod raised.Fit the spring onto the guide rod, enter the spring into its well from the left, then seat the rod's end into its seat in the operating slide.

Sources

  1. FM 23-7: U.S. Carbine, Caliber .30, M1 — War Department primary
    https://archive.org/details/FM23-7
  2. TM 9-1276: Carbines, Caliber .30, M1, M1A1, M2 and M3 — U.S. Department of the Army primary
  3. TM 9-1276 Carbines, Cal. .30, M1, M1A1, M2, and M3 (Ordnance Maintenance) — War Department primary
    https://archive.org/download/tm-9-1276-carbines-cal.-.-30-m-1-m-1-a-1-m-2-and-m-3-1947/TM%209-1276%20Carbines%2C%20Cal.%20.30%2C%20M1%2C%20M1A1%2C%20M2%2C%20And%20M3%20%20%201947.pdf
  4. .30 Caliber Carbine Basic Nomenclature — M1CarbinesInc.com primary
    https://www.m1carbinesinc.com/nomenclature.html
  5. TFB FIELD STRIP: M1 Carbine — The Firearm Blog secondary
    https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2019/06/14/tfb-field-strip-m1-carbine/
Reassembled and function-checked byDate

Educational guide only. Some information comes from non-authoritative sources. Always consult your manufacturer's manual and a licensed gunsmith. Verify your firearm is unloaded before every procedure. Full disclaimer: https://github.com/Fundamental-build-LLC/Pew-Takedown