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Work order — M1 Garand

Taking the firearm apart for a job such as refinishing, and putting it back together to specification. Generated from the Pew-Takedown entry last updated 2026-10-29. Confidence: high.

Shop difficulty: Tier 3 of 3

Springfield's simplified list has 59 parts, but the trigger and sear stay as one assembly. The trigger housing has to be stripped with the hammer spring held compressed while the trigger pin is started, the bolt's extractor holds three spring-loaded parts that fly out, and the op rod bends if it is forced. TM 9-1275 limits the detail strip to ordnance personnel. 55 parts (rifle per the numbered Parts Legend (keys 1-55) of the exploded view in the CMP owner's manual 'U.S. Rifle, Caliber .30, M1'; the wooden stock itself is not numbered in the legend, and the rear sight ). Pew-Takedown's rating, not the manufacturer's.

Bench time: strip ~60 min, rebuild ~90 min (estimate). Actual: strip ______ rebuild ______

Special tools:

• M1 combination tool / M10 cleaning rod handle — Gas cylinder lock screw, rear sight, extractor
• Drift punches (3/32", 1/8") — Trigger, hammer, clip latch, follower arm and op-rod catch pins
• Extractor removing tool (optional) — Removing the bolt parts with the bolt in the receiver (TM 9-1275 para 55)
• Rear handguard / lower band pin punch — Rear handguard band and lower band pin

Watch for:

• Stripping the trigger housing means holding the hammer spring compressed with the thumb on the sear, bracing the housing, and drifting the trigger pin out, then letting the spring out slowly. Going back in is the same fight in reverse. (both; War Department)
• Releasing the bolt's extractor frees the ejector, ejector spring, extractor spring and plunger at once; on reassembly the firing pin and ejector notches have to line up with the extractor spindle before it is pushed home. (both; War Department)
• The operating rod is bent on purpose and is easily sprung if forced off or on its track, which ruins function and accuracy. (both; Department of the Army)
• The gas cylinder lock has to come back to alignment by hand, and the gas cylinder splines are easily burred when it is tapped off. (both; Department of the Army)
• The detail strip beyond the field strip was an ordnance-level job. (both; War Department)

Tools

• Combination tool or a screwdriver — Gas cylinder lock screw, if going beyond a field strip.

1. Clear and make safe

1. Point the muzzle in a safe direction and keep your finger off the trigger.
2. Pull the operating rod handle fully to the rear and hold it there. Press the clip latch on the left side of the receiver to eject any en bloc clip.
   Warning: Keep the edge of your hand against the operating rod handle throughout. The bolt will try to close.
3. Lock the bolt back by pressing the follower down while easing the operating rod forward slightly onto the follower's catch.
4. Inspect the chamber and receiver with a light and physically confirm the chamber is empty.
5. Push the safety — the tab at the front of the trigger guard — rearward into the trigger guard to the safe position.
6. Remove all ammunition and clips from the work area.

2. Disassemble

Field Strip

1. Complete the Clear and Make Safe procedure, then let the bolt go forward by depressing the follower with your thumb and allowing the bolt to ride forward over the follower assembly.
   Tip: FM 23-5's own method. It avoids the bolt slamming on an empty chamber.
2. Place the rifle butt against your left thigh with the sights to the left.
3. With the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, pull downward and outward on the REAR of the trigger guard, and swing it out as far as it will go.
   Warning: The rear of the guard, pulled down and out. Levering the front of it achieves nothing.
4. Lift out the trigger housing group.
5. Lay the rifle on a flat surface with the sights UP and the muzzle to the left. Grasp the rear of the receiver with the left hand and raise the rifle, then give a downward blow with the right hand on the small of the stock.
   Warning: A firm downward blow on the small of the stock is what separates the groups. Tapping the butt does not.
6. Turn the barrel and receiver group sights DOWN with the rear sight aperture at its lowest position, muzzle to the left.
7. Holding the rear of the receiver, grasp the follower rod with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and disengage it from the follower arm by moving it toward the muzzle.
8. Withdraw the follower rod and operating rod spring to the right.
   Warning: Do not separate these two parts. FM 23-5 says so in those words.
9. Pull the operating rod rearward until its lug aligns with the dismount notch in the receiver track, rotate the handle outward and lift the operating rod free.
   Warning: The operating rod is intentionally bent. Do not attempt to straighten it.
10. Turn the barrel and receiver group right side up. Remove the bolt by pulling it forward about one inch, tilting it upward about 15 degrees, then sliding it out forward from the receiver.

Disassemble the trigger housing group

1. With the trigger housing group removed from the rifle, close and latch the trigger guard.
2. Release the hammer to the fired position.
3. Hold the group in the right hand with the right thumb on the sear and the forefinger pulling back on the trigger, the base of the trigger housing braced against a firm support.
4. Press on the sear with the right thumb to relieve tension on the trigger pin.
5. Start the trigger pin from its seat with a drift held in the left hand, then remove it.
6. Release the pressure of the right thumb and forefinger gradually, letting the hammer spring extend to its full length while steadying the hammer spring housing with the fingers of the left hand.
   Warning: The hammer spring is under compression; let it out gradually.
7. Remove the trigger assembly.
   Warning: Do not remove the sear pin or sear from the trigger.
8. Remove the hammer spring housing, hammer spring and hammer spring plunger, and separate these parts.
9. Push the hammer pin out from the left side and remove the hammer.
10. Press the top of the safety away from the left side of the trigger housing until its stud snaps out of its seat.
11. Lift the safety from its slot in the trigger housing.
12. Slide the trigger guard back to the dismount notch, revolve it slightly counterclockwise and lift it from the housing.
13. Hold a finger over the clip ejector to keep it from flying out of the housing when it is released.
14. Insert the point of the combination tool in the dismounting hole in the housing and push the clip ejector out from under the retaining lug.

Disassemble the bolt

1. Place the thumb over the face of the bolt.
   Warning: The ejector, ejector spring, extractor spring and its plunger can fly out when the extractor is released.
2. Pry the extractor from its seat in the bolt with the screwdriver blade of the combination tool.
3. Withdraw the ejector and ejector spring from the bolt.
4. Withdraw the extractor spring and plunger from the bolt.
5. Withdraw the firing pin from the bolt.

Replace the firing pin with the extractor removing tool

1. Retract the bolt and insert the spindle of the extractor removing tool into the chamber until the shoulder of the tool has bearing.
2. Allow the bolt to close slowly, turning the ring with the handle so that the lug of the ring is under the extractor.
3. Hold the bolt closed against the ring of the tool and turn the ring counterclockwise so that its lug pushes the extractor out of its seat and out of engagement with the ejector.
4. Retract the bolt slowly, allowing the ejector and extractor plunger springs to release.
5. Withdraw the firing pin from its well.
6. Assemble the new firing pin from the rear of the receiver.
7. Position the pin and ejector so that the extractor spindle will engage their notches before pushing the extractor home.
   Warning: At no time should undue force be used.
8. When the extractor is seated flush in its notch in the bolt, retract the bolt and withdraw the tool from the chamber.

Remove the follower group and clip latch from the receiver

1. Complete the Field Strip through removal of the follower rod and operating rod spring, keeping the barrel and receiver group upside down.
2. Using the drift of the combination tool, push the follower arm pin out from right to left.
3. Remove the follower arm, the operating rod catch assembly with its accelerator, and the bullet guide.
   Warning: Do not disassemble the accelerator from the operating rod catch.
4. Lift the follower assembly upward and out of its slots in the receiver.
5. Remove the operating rod and the bolt as in the Field Strip.
6. Press in on the clip latch to relieve the tension of its spring.
7. Drive the latch pin forward out of the receiver with a drift.
8. Lift out the clip latch with the clip latch spring attached.

Remove the gas cylinder, front hand guard, lower band and rear hand guard

1. Unscrew the gas cylinder lock screw with the screwdriver end of the combination tool or a screwdriver of similar size.
2. Unscrew the gas cylinder lock from the end of the barrel.
   Tip: The lock has a right-hand thread.
3. Push or drive the gas cylinder forward off the barrel.
4. Slide the front hand guard forward off the front end of the barrel.
5. Drive out the pin holding the lower band to the barrel.
6. Slide the lower band forward off the barrel.
7. Push the rear hand guard forward about one inch so the lip on the right side of its band disengages the slot on the barrel.
8. Twist the rear hand guard slightly and lift it from the barrel.
9. On rifles with the screw-on type gas cylinder, instead remove the front sight screw, lift out the front sight and unscrew the gas cylinder assembly from the barrel.

Disassemble the rear sight

1. Lower the aperture as far as it will go and record the reading on the elevating knob for use in assembling.
2. Unscrew the rear sight nut from the right side of the rear sight with the combination tool.
3. Unscrew the windage knob.
   Warning: Take care that the rear sight nut lock assembly inside the windage knob does not become lost.
4. Remove the nut lock and nut lock spring from the windage knob.
5. Remove the rear sight elevating knob screw from the left side of the rear sight with a screwdriver.
6. Remove the rear sight elevating knob.
7. Pull the rear sight elevating pinion out from the left side of the receiver.
8. Grasp the aperture and pull it upward about 1/2 inch.
9. Place the thumb under the top of the aperture and push forward to remove the rear sight cover, rear sight base and aperture.

Remove the butt plate, rear swivel and stock ferrule

1. Unscrew the wood screw that retains the heel end of the butt plate to the stock.
2. Unscrew the toe screw, the machine screw that threads into the inner end of the rear swivel, and remove the butt plate and swivel.
3. Unscrew the stock ferrule screw and remove the stock ferrule swivel and stock ferrule.
   Warning: The end of this screw is normally peened over, so the screw must be replaced if removed.

3. Refinish

The components the procedures above separate. Coating, masking and cure are outside this database; follow your coating system's instructions. A part the manufacturer marks "factory fit" should not be swapped or reworked.

No manufacturer statement of materials or finish is recorded. Identify each part's material before choosing prep and cure.

4. Reassemble

Remove the butt plate, rear swivel and stock ferrule

1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the butt plate, rear swivel and stock ferrule".

Disassemble the rear sight

1. Reverse the steps of "Disassemble the rear sight".

Remove the gas cylinder, front hand guard, lower band and rear hand guard

1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the gas cylinder, front hand guard, lower band and rear hand guard".

Remove the follower group and clip latch from the receiver

1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the follower group and clip latch from the receiver".

Replace the firing pin with the extractor removing tool

1. Reverse the steps of "Replace the firing pin with the extractor removing tool".

Disassemble the bolt

1. Reverse the steps of "Disassemble the bolt".

Disassemble the trigger housing group

1. Reverse the steps of "Disassemble the trigger housing group".

Reassemble the trigger housing group

1. Place the clip ejector in the trigger housing with its short arm up, the tip of its long arm in its slot in the vertical front face of the housing, and its loop against its stud on the left side of the housing.
2. Hold the trigger housing with its left side down and rear end to the right, holding the loop of the clip ejector against its stud with the right thumb and the long arm up in its slot with the left forefinger.
3. Pry the long arm of the clip ejector toward your body, near its left end, with the left thumb to seat it.
4. Hold the trigger housing in the left hand, top up and forward end to the front, and the trigger guard in the right hand with its winged section pointing to the left.
5. Place the winged sections astride the bottom of the trigger housing with the hammer stop over the safety slot.
6. Rotate the trigger guard downward, then slide it forward into position.
7. Replace the safety so that its thumbpiece passes through the slot in both the trigger guard and the bottom of the housing and its stud snaps into its seat in the side plate of the trigger housing.
8. Push the safety thumbpiece forward to the ready position.
9. Insert the hammer loosely in the cocked position and align its pin hole with the pin holes in the trigger housing and trigger guard.
10. Insert the hammer pin from the right.
11. Swing the hammer to the fired position.
12. Place the trigger housing on a smooth surface, base of the housing down and to the left.
13. Assemble the hammer spring housing, hammer spring and hammer spring plunger into one unit.
14. Place the plunger in its seat against the hammer with the open side of the hammer spring housing toward the safety, and hold the assembled parts in a raised position with the left thumb and forefinger.
15. With the right hand insert the trigger into the trigger slot so that the notch at the curved rear surface of the finger piece bears against the rear of the slot in the trigger housing.
16. Arrange the parts so that the bottom shoulder of the hammer spring housing rests in the notch just below and forward of the trigger pin hole and the two wings of the hammer spring housing straddle the sear pin.
17. Push down with the left thumb on the top of the rear end of the hammer spring housing while pulling the trigger rearward with the right forefinger and pushing forward on the sear with the right thumb, bringing the trigger pin hole into alignment with the holes in the trigger housing.
18. Hold this alignment with the right hand, bracing the base of the trigger housing against a firm surface, and insert the trigger pin with the left hand up to its head.
19. Hold the trigger housing in the right hand, open side up and top of the hammer toward your body, with the right thumb in rear of the sear and the fingers around the front wall of the housing.
    Tip: The manual calls this the quickest method of seating the trigger pin head and says it works on the newest and stiffest rifle.
20. Place the left thumb on the head of the trigger pin, then vigorously close the right hand while pressing down on the pin head to seat it.

Reassemble the bolt

1. Insert the firing pin into the bolt, making sure that its tang enters the slot in the rear of the bolt.
2. Grasp the bolt in the left hand, top up and extractor recess to the right, holding the firing pin in place with the little finger.
3. Insert the ejector with the ejector spring attached.
4. Insert the extractor spring and plunger.
5. Set the stud of the extractor into its hole in the bolt without forcing it against the ejector spring.
6. Place the drift of the combination tool in the left groove of the bolt with the ejector in the ejector cut on the face of the tool.
7. Press down on the combination tool to compress the ejector spring and align the ejector.
8. With the left thumb push the extractor in until the extractor plunger is seated.
   Warning: The manual says this operation should be performed only with the combination tool.

Install the clip latch and follower group in the receiver

1. Lay the barrel and receiver group on its right side and place the clip latch with its spring in position on the left side of the receiver.
2. Insert the latch pin into the receiver from the forward end and locate it in the hole in the forward end of the latch.
3. Press lightly on the rear end of the latch to relieve the spring tension and push the pin through the latch into the rear hole in the receiver.
4. Install the bolt and operating rod as in the Reassembly procedure, and push them to the closed position.
5. If the follower slide has been removed, hook the slide in place in the small end of the follower.
6. Stand the two pieces on end or mount them at an angle in a vise, and deliver a sharp blow on the rear end of the slide so it snaps back into position on the follower.
7. Place the follower, slide below it and small end to the rear, in the grooved ways in the front pair of lips of the receiver.
   Warning: Do not insert the follower in the rear pair of lips.
8. Place the bullet guide on the receiver with the hole in its lip in line with the receiver and the lugs on its opposite end in the corresponding grooves in the receiver lips, so that it projects approximately square from the receiver.
   Warning: Do not insert the guide so that its contour conforms closely to the contour of the receiver.
9. Insert the long arm of the operating rod catch, with accelerator, through the clearance slot between the bullet guide and the receiver until the holes in the catch coincide with those in the receiver, with the accelerator above the lug on the bullet guide.
   Tip: In this position the arm of the catch hooks under the lug on the clip latch where it extends through the side of the receiver.
10. Insert the long arm of the follower arm through the clearance slot in the center of the bullet guide and into the grooves in the forward end of the follower.
11. Drop the front end of the follower arm over the lug on the bullet guide until the holes in the follower coincide with those in the receiver.
12. With the receiver group upside down, insert the follower arm pin from left to right through the receiver, bullet guide, operating rod catch assembly and follower.
13. Insert the operating rod spring into the operating rod and engage the hooks of the follower rod with the lugs on the follower arm, making sure the hump on the follower rod engages the slot in the operating rod catch.
    Tip: When correctly in place the follower rod closely parallels the lower edge of the barrel.

Install the gas cylinder group

1. Place the open loop of the gas cylinder over the end of the barrel and slide it on until the splines on the cylinder and barrel are fully engaged.
2. Place the gas cylinder lock over the barrel with its lug forward and screw it down as far as possible.
   Warning: Do not force the lock.
3. Unscrew the lock a fraction of a turn to the left until the screw hole in the lock lines up with the threaded hole in the gas cylinder.
4. Turn the gas cylinder lock screw in several threads with the fingers only.
5. Push the gas cylinder lightly toward the muzzle until it rests against the lock.
6. Tighten the lock screw so it cannot work loose while firing, to 17 to 20 foot-pounds.
   Tip: Changes No. 1 equates this to a pressure of approximately 60 pounds applied to each end of a combination tool.
7. On rifles with the screw-on type gas cylinder, instead screw the gas cylinder assembly to the barrel and replace the front sight and front sight screw.

Reassemble the rear sight

1. Assemble the rear sight base and cover, inserting the front lip of the cover in its slot at the forward end of the sight bracket.
2. Raise the sight base slightly and, with the screwdriver blade of the combination tool held horizontally, press forward on the rear lip of the cover until it snaps into its slot in the rear end of the sight bracket.
3. Insert the aperture in the slot opening in the rear sight base and slide it to its extreme forward position.
4. Holding the rear sight base forward against the cover, insert the elevating pinion through the left side of the receiver so that it meshes with the rack on the aperture.
5. Move the rear sight base to the left.
6. Insert the windage knob through the right side of the receiver and screw it into the rear sight until the ZERO mark on the base registers with the center line of the windage scale on the receiver.
7. Place the rear sight nut lock spring and nut lock in the windage knob around the threaded end of the elevating pinion, flange of the nut lock outside and its flat aligned with the flat cut on the pinion.
8. Holding the elevating drum, screw the rear sight nut onto the elevating pinion with the combination tool until the desired tension on both the elevating drum and windage knob is obtained.
   Warning: If the nut is screwed too tight, the knobs become locked and cannot be turned.
9. Lower the aperture as far as it will go by turning the elevating pinion.
10. Replace the elevating knob and rotate it to the position noted before disassembly.
11. Holding it in this position, replace the elevating knob screw and tighten it.
12. Run the aperture as high as possible and complete the tightening of the screw.

Install the butt plate, rear swivel and stock ferrule

1. Insert the rear swivel in the slot in the stock.
2. Insert the wood screw that retains the heel end of the butt plate to the stock.
3. Insert and tighten the toe screw, bringing the rear swivel into alignment so the screw threads into it.
4. Assemble the stock ferrule and stock ferrule swivel to the stock with a new stock ferrule screw.
5. Peen over the end of the stock ferrule screw to prevent its coming loose in service.

Reassembly

1. Set the bolt into the receiver, engaging its lugs in the raceway, and slide it forward.
2. Engage the operating rod's lug at the dismount notch, rotate it into the track, and slide it forward, seating the piston into the gas cylinder.
3. Insert the operating rod spring and follower rod into the operating rod, compress them, and engage the follower rod with the follower arm.
   Warning: Keep the spring under control throughout.
4. Set the barrel and receiver group into the stock, aligning it fully forward.
5. Set the trigger housing group into the stock and receiver, then swing the trigger guard closed and latch it fully.
   Warning: If the trigger guard will not close, the trigger housing is not aligned. Do not force it — the housing can crack the stock.
6. Cycle the action several times and perform the function check.

5. Torque

Fit or check on rebuild

• Rear sight knob tension and zero — The knobs must hold their clicks and the rifle has to be re-zeroed after the sight is off
• Gas cylinder lock alignment — The lock must come round to alignment by hand without forcing
• Trigger function and hammer hooks — Check the safety, trigger pull and that the hammer does not follow; a re-coated sear/hammer face must not be coated
• Stock-to-receiver fit — A refinished stock or coated receiver can make the trigger guard hard to latch or the action loose in the stock

6. Function check

• Verify the rifle is unloaded before each step.
• Cycle the operating rod and confirm the bolt locks and unlocks smoothly.
• With the hammer cocked, engage the safety and press the trigger. The hammer must not fall.
• Disengage the safety and press the trigger. The hammer should fall.
• Hold the trigger back, cycle the action, and release the trigger to feel the reset.
• Insert an empty en bloc clip and confirm it latches and the clip latch ejects it.
• Confirm the trigger guard is fully latched and the rifle sits tight in the stock.

If any check fails, the firearm is not safe to fire. Stop and see a licensed gunsmith.

If it won't go back together

Sources

1. FM 23-5: U.S. Rifle, Caliber .30, M1 — Headquarters, Department of the Army primary
   https://archive.org/details/Fm23-5
2. TM 9-1005-222-12: Rifle, Caliber .30, M1 — U.S. Department of the Army primary
3. TM 9-1275 Ordnance Maintenance: U.S. Rifle, Cal. .30, M1 (November 6, 1942), as changed by Changes No. 1 (May 15, 1943), par. 77c — War Department primary
   https://archive.org/download/1942TM9-1275/1942TM9-1275.pdf
4. FM 23-5: U.S. Rifle, Caliber .30, M1 — Department of the Army primary
   https://archive.org/download/Fm23-5/Fm23-5.pdf
5. U.S. Rifle, Caliber .30, M1 (owner's manual, Civilian Marksmanship Program; (c) 1997 Xanagraf LLC) - Parts Legend / Exploded View — Civilian Marksmanship Program (Corporation for the Promotion of Rifle Practice and Firearms Safety) / Xanagraf LLC secondary
   https://archive.org/download/gunmanual_Cmp_M1_Garand/Cmp%20M1%20Garand_djvu.txt

Educational guide only. Some information comes from non-authoritative sources. Always consult your manufacturer's manual and a licensed gunsmith. Verify your firearm is unloaded before every procedure. Full disclaimer: https://github.com/Fundamental-build-LLC/Pew-Takedown

Legal notice: this material is third-party information compiled from sources of varying reliability and is provided for general informational and educational purposes only. It is not gunsmithing, technical, safety or legal advice, it is not verified or endorsed by any manufacturer, and it must not be taken as fact. Any work on a firearm beyond the routine field stripping described in its own owner's manual should be performed only by a licensed and insured gunsmith. You use this material entirely at your own risk. Fundamental Build LLC and the project's contributors make no warranty of any kind and accept no liability for death, injury, damage or loss arising from its use. Full terms: LEGAL.md.