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Work order — Smith & Wesson Model 10

Taking the firearm apart for a job such as refinishing, and putting it back together to specification. Generated from the Pew-Takedown entry last updated 2026-10-29. Confidence: medium.

Shop difficulty: Tier 2 of 3

K-frame sideplate lockwork of about 59 pieces (Army TM count): one tensioned rebound slide spring that flies, a loose hammer block that must be indexed while the sideplate goes on, and a hand spring that must stay engaged. Well documented and tool-light, so moderate rather than hardest. 53 parts (complete revolver per the Smith & Wesson section of the Army RPSTL (Figures C1-C8, Groups 00-0206): every piece-part item number, with the assembly headers (C1-2, C1-3, C3-4, C3-10, C3-11, C3-12, C3-1). Pew-Takedown's rating, not the manufacturer's.

Bench time: strip ~35 min, rebuild ~55 min (estimate). Actual: strip ______ rebuild ______

Special tools:

• Rebound slide spring tool (Brownells S&W tool) or a Phillips screwdriver just larger than the spring ID — Compressing and re-seating the rebound slide spring over its stud
• Fitted hollow-ground (gunsmith) screwdrivers — Sideplate, strain, thumbpiece and stock screws without burring
• Nylon/brass or rawhide mallet — Tapping the frame to lift a tight sideplate
• Large clear plastic bag — Containing the rebound spring and small springs on removal

Watch for:

• The rebound slide spring is under heavy tension; it launches when the slide is pried off and must be compressed back over its stud on reassembly. (both; Shooting Times)
• The hammer block lies loose under the sideplate and must be seated up on the rebound slide pin while the sideplate is fitted. (reassembly; Shooting Times)
• The hand must keep its torsion-spring tension when the trigger goes back in, or the cylinder will not index. (reassembly; Smith & Wesson Forum)
• The sideplate must be tapped off the frame, never pried, and the sideplate screws go back in the holes they came from. (disassembly; Shooting Times)
• Smith & Wesson tells owners not to go beyond the field strip; lockwork work is for a qualified gunsmith. (both; Smith & Wesson)

Tools

• Hollow-ground gunsmith screwdriver — The yoke retaining screw. A tapered hardware-store screwdriver will chew the screw head and it will look chewed forever.

1. Clear and make safe

Manufacturer's video: Unloading & Reloading Revolvers (Smith & Wesson)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A88dQCkTllA

1. Point the muzzle in a safe direction and keep your finger off the trigger.
2. Push the thumbpiece forward and swing the cylinder out to the left.
3. Press the ejector rod firmly to eject all cartridges or cases from the chambers.
   Tip: Point the muzzle up and strike the rod briskly with the palm so the cases clear fully.
4. Look through every chamber, one at a time, and confirm each is empty.
   Warning: All six. A revolver with one loaded chamber looks identical to an empty one from most angles.
5. Confirm the chamber-to-barrel gap area and the bore are clear of obstruction.
6. Remove all live ammunition from the work area.

2. Disassemble

Routine cleaning (what Smith & Wesson documents)

1. Complete the Clear and Make Safe procedure and leave the cylinder swung out.
2. Clean the bore and each chamber with a solvent-wetted patch and bronze brush, then dry patches until they come out clean.
3. Clean the front face of the cylinder, the forcing cone, and the recoil shield, where fouling and lead build up fastest.
4. Restrict your choice of solvent to products made for firearms, and avoid prolonged solvent immersion or ultrasonic cleaning — S&W records finish damage from both.
   Warning: Never use ammoniated or other strong alkaline solvents on a Smith & Wesson.
   Tip: S&W's rule of thumb: if you would be happy putting it on your car's paint, it is probably safe on the gun.
5. Come back in 24 to 48 hours. Residue works its way out of the barrel and chambers after the first clean; remove it with a bristle brush and a light re-application of solvent, then re-oil.
6. Apply a light film of good gun oil to all external metal surfaces and wipe clean. In cold climates use an oil that will not thicken.

Remove the side plate and strip the lockwork

1. Remove the grip screw.
   Warning: Make sure revolver is not loaded and barrel is not obstructed.
   Tip: On the S&W the screw is removed from the side opposite the one shown in the manual's illustration.
2. Remove both grips from the frame.
3. Press forward on the thumbpiece and open the cylinder.
4. Remove the front side plate screw (yoke screw).
5. Carefully slide the cylinder assembly forward, lining up one of the flutes in the cylinder with the edge of the frame.
6. Remove the cylinder and yoke assembly.
7. Remove the two remaining side plate screws.
   Warning: Do not attempt to pry the side plate from the frame. Prying can damage the frame or side plate.
8. Pad the frame around the side plate and gently tap the frame areas near the side plate with a soft-faced hammer, gradually lifting the side plate off.
9. Remove the hammer block.
10. Remove the strain screw.
11. Push the top of the flat (main) spring forward to take its strain off the stirrup, release it from the lugs on the stirrup, and remove it.
12. Push the thumbpiece back and hold it, cock the hammer and hold the trigger to the rear.
    Tip: The thumbpiece is on the left side of the revolver.
13. Remove the hammer from the hammer stud and release the trigger.
14. Carefully raise the rebound slide until it clears its stud, easing the tension on the compression spring.
    Warning: After the rebound slide clears the stud, gradually ease tension on the compression spring to prevent it from being lost or damaged.
15. Remove the rebound slide assembly, leaving the compression spring in its recess.
16. Hold the hand to the rear and carefully lift the trigger assembly off the trigger stud on the frame.
17. Remove the cylinder stop from the frame.
18. Remove the stop spring from the cylinder stop.

Disassemble the cylinder and yoke assembly

1. Remove the cylinder and yoke assembly from the revolver.
2. Slide the yoke out of the cylinder assembly.
3. Unscrew the extractor rod from the extractor.
   Warning: The threads on the end of the extractor rod and in the extractor are left-hand threads. Turn clockwise to loosen and counterclockwise to tighten.
4. Remove the extractor rod collar, the two compression springs, the center pin and the extractor from the cylinder.
5. Remove the extractor pins and the gas ring from the cylinder only if they are being replaced.
   Warning: Extractor pins and gas ring must not be removed except for replacement.

Disassemble the rebound slide

1. Shake the compression spring out of the rebound slide.
2. Drive the rebound slide pin out of the rebound slide.

Disassemble the trigger assembly

1. Pull up on the torsion spring and remove the hand and hand pin from the trigger.
2. Drive out the torsion spring's headless pin and remove the spring.
3. Drive out the trigger lever's headless pins and remove the trigger lever from the trigger.

Remove the thumbpiece and cylinder bolt from the frame

1. Remove the thumbpiece nut and the thumbpiece from the side of the frame.
   Warning: Be careful not to bend or damage the bolt. Do not lose the plunger or spring.
2. Slide the bolt to the rear and lift the back of the bolt up and out of the frame.
3. Remove the bolt plunger and helical spring from the bolt.

3. Refinish

The components the procedures above separate. Coating, masking and cure are outside this database; follow your coating system's instructions. A part the manufacturer marks "factory fit" should not be swapped or reworked.

Labelled parts in the manufacturer's documents:

• Model and features identification (labelled photo of the revolver) — Smith & Wesson Revolvers (Modern Style) Safety & Instruction Manual, p. 14
  https://www.mcarbo.com/.Owners%20Manuals/S-W_Revolver_Owners-Manual.pdf#page=14

4. Reassemble

Remove the thumbpiece and cylinder bolt from the frame

1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the thumbpiece and cylinder bolt from the frame".

Disassemble the trigger assembly

1. Reverse the steps of "Disassemble the trigger assembly".

Disassemble the rebound slide

1. Reverse the steps of "Disassemble the rebound slide".

Disassemble the cylinder and yoke assembly

1. Reverse the steps of "Disassemble the cylinder and yoke assembly".

Remove the side plate and strip the lockwork

1. Reverse the steps of "Remove the side plate and strip the lockwork".

Reassemble the lockwork and install the side plate

1. Place the compression spring in the cylinder stop, depress the spring, and install the cylinder stop on the frame.
2. Install the trigger assembly on its mounting stud by moving the hand to the rear and pivoting the trigger lever up.
3. Hold the trigger and the thumbpiece to the rear, pivot the stirrup upward, and install the hammer on its stud.
4. Make sure the compression spring is in the recess of the rebound slide.
5. Depress the spring and install the rebound slide, beveled end forward, so the rear of the trigger lever fits in the recess of the rebound slide and against the retaining stud.
6. Keep steady pressure on the compression spring until it is safely positioned against its stud.
7. Install the flat (main) spring by attaching it to the stirrup and placing it into the frame.
8. Install and tighten the strain screw.
9. Install the hammer block.
10. Check that the hammer block is positioned correctly, then install the side plate and seat it properly in the frame.
11. Install the round-head and flat-head side plate screws.
12. Line up the cylinder assembly with the frame and install it.
13. Secure the cylinder assembly with its screw.
14. Close the cylinder.
15. Position the grips on the frame and secure them with the grip screw.
16. Test hammer nose protrusion, cylinder alignment and trigger pull.
    Tip: Manual values: hammer nose protrusion 0.040-0.050 inch; single-action pull 2 1/2 to 5 lb; double-action pull not over 16 lb.

Reassemble the cylinder and yoke assembly

1. If they were removed, drive a new gas ring into the cylinder.
2. If they were removed, drive new extractor pins into the cylinder.
3. Insert the extractor, compression spring, extractor rod collar, center pin and second compression spring in the cylinder.
4. Insert the extractor rod in the extractor and tighten it.
   Warning: The threads on the end of the extractor rod and in the extractor are left-hand threads. Turn counterclockwise to tighten or install.
5. Slide the yoke into the cylinder.

Reassemble the rebound slide

1. Drive the rebound slide pin into the rebound slide until it is flush with the back side of the slide.
2. Insert the compression spring into the rebound slide.

Reassemble the trigger assembly

1. Insert the trigger lever in the trigger and secure it with its headless pin.
2. Insert the second headless pin.
3. Install the torsion spring and secure it with its headless pin.
4. Drive the hand pin into the hand.
5. Pull up on the torsion spring and install the hand so that the hand pin engages the torsion spring.

Install the cylinder bolt and thumbpiece

1. Insert the helical spring and bolt plunger in the end of the bolt and compress the spring.
2. With the spring fully compressed, insert the bolt in the frame.
3. Install the thumbpiece and secure it with the thumbpiece nut.

Reassembly

1. Slide the yoke and cylinder assembly back into the frame, seating the yoke fully in its frame cut.
2. Start the yoke retaining screw by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten it snugly with the correct screwdriver.
   Warning: Do not overtighten. The screw only needs to be snug; it is not a structural fastener.
3. Close the cylinder gently by hand. Never flick it closed.
   Warning: Flicking the cylinder closed springs the crane and puts the revolver out of time.
4. Perform the function check.

5. Torque

No manufacturer torque values are recorded for this firearm.

Notes: The manufacturer's documents give no torque value. They say: "The barrel assembly is re-installed using the same tool and an accurate torque wrench." (Safety & Instruction Manual, Revolvers - Modern Style - J, K, L and N Frame (p/n 416560000, REV S&W_REVOLVER_112119), linked from smith-wesson.com revolver product pages, p. 26 (Gunsmith Advisory))

Fit or check on rebuild

• Timing / carry-up: each chamber must lock before the hammer falls, single and double action — The hand torsion spring must engage the hand; a hand pulled back too far loses spring tension and the cylinder will not index.
• Cylinder gap (barrel-cylinder) and end shake; crane alignment — The Army issues gauges for exactly these checks when the cylinder/yoke group is replaced.
• Firing-pin (hammer-nose) protrusion and hammer-block function — Same TM lists a firing-pin protrusion gauge; the hammer block must ride up on the rebound slide pin before the sideplate goes on.
• Sideplate seats flush with no forcing; strain screw fully tightened — A sideplate that is not flush binds the grips and parts behind it; a backed-out strain screw gives light strikes (well-known S&W check).
• Trigger reset with the rebound spring fitted — The rebound slide spring is also the trigger return spring.

6. Function check

• Verify all chambers are empty before each check.
• Cock the hammer slowly and confirm the cylinder locks up at each chamber before the hammer reaches full cock — this is carry-up.
• With the hammer at full cock, try to rotate the cylinder by hand. It should be locked, with only minimal play.
• Press the trigger in single action and confirm the hammer falls cleanly.
• Cycle the action in double action through all six chambers and confirm the cylinder indexes and locks each time.
• Confirm the cylinder latches closed securely and the thumbpiece releases it cleanly.
• Check that the cylinder has minimal front-to-back play (endshake) and that the cylinder gap looks even. If either seems off, see a gunsmith.

If any check fails, the firearm is not safe to fire. Stop and see a licensed gunsmith.

Sources

1. Smith & Wesson Revolvers (Modern Style) Safety & Instruction Manual — Smith & Wesson primary
   https://www.mcarbo.com/.Owners%20Manuals/S-W_Revolver_Owners-Manual.pdf
2. Safety & Instruction Manual, Revolvers - Modern Style - J, K, L and N Frame (p/n 416560000, REV S&W_REVOLVER_112119), linked from smith-wesson.com revolver product pages — Smith & Wesson primary
   https://smith-wesson.canto.com/direct/document/tquc8lb05d2hl96gi51fuh2m46/2Ppiam-m3ty8iZtHw_DoQfTzAsI/original?content-type=application%2Fpdf
3. Smith & Wesson Model 10 Classic (No Internal Lock) — product specifications, SKU 14074 — Smith & Wesson Brands, Inc. primary
   https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/model-10-classic-no-internal-lock
4. TM 9-1005-206-14&P-1 Operator's, Organizational, Direct Support, and General Support Maintenance Manual Including Repair Parts and Special Tools List for Revolver, Caliber .38 Special: Smith and Wesson, Military and Police, M10 (Round Butt 4-inch and 2-inch Barrel; Square Butt 4-inch Barrel) and Rev — Headquarters, Department of the Army primary
   https://archive.org/download/revolver-cal-.-38-spl-smith-and-wesson-mil.-and-police-m-10/Revolver%2C%20Cal%20.38%20Spl%2C%20Smith%20and%20Wesson%20Mil.%20and%20Police%20M10.pdf
5. Virtual Patent Marking | Smith & Wesson — Smith & Wesson primary
   https://www.smith-wesson.com/company/virtual-patent-marking
6. Installing Smith & Wesson Spring Kit — Shooting Times secondary
   https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/gunsmithing_st_installswspringkit_200812/100181
7. Change of a 686 rebound spring — Smith & Wesson Forum anecdotal
   https://smith-wessonforum.com/threads/change-of-a-686-rebound-spring.330582
8. TM 9-1005-206-14&P-1, Revolver, Caliber .38 Special: Smith and Wesson Military and Police M10 (and Ruger) - Appendix C, Section II Repair Parts List (archive.org OCR text of the scanned PDF) — Headquarters, Department of the Army (scan hosted by archive.org) primary
   https://archive.org/download/revolver-cal-.-38-spl-smith-and-wesson-mil.-and-police-m-10/Revolver%2C%20Cal%20.38%20Spl%2C%20Smith%20and%20Wesson%20Mil.%20and%20Police%20M10_djvu.txt

Educational guide only. Some information comes from non-authoritative sources. Always consult your manufacturer's manual and a licensed gunsmith. Verify your firearm is unloaded before every procedure. Full disclaimer: https://github.com/Fundamental-build-LLC/Pew-Takedown

Legal notice: this material is third-party information compiled from sources of varying reliability and is provided for general informational and educational purposes only. It is not gunsmithing, technical, safety or legal advice, it is not verified or endorsed by any manufacturer, and it must not be taken as fact. Any work on a firearm beyond the routine field stripping described in its own owner's manual should be performed only by a licensed and insured gunsmith. You use this material entirely at your own risk. Fundamental Build LLC and the project's contributors make no warranty of any kind and accept no liability for death, injury, damage or loss arising from its use. Full terms: LEGAL.md.